Disconnected Layered Cut
Layers can come in many shapes and forms: round, universal, square and soft. This cut is a disconnected layer, which was done in order to keep the length but create shape.
1. Part the hair down the center from front to nape, then take a sub-section going across from the center part to the side and pin the rest of hair out of the way.
2. Do the same to the other side, combing the hair down tight into the neck. Cut straight across at the appropriate height.
3. Take the next sub-section across the same way from the center part to the side (on both sides) and pin the rest of the hair out of the way. Make sure the sub-section is not too wide.
4. Check both sides with your fingers to make sure that the length is the same, then continue this sub-section technique until reaching the crown.
5. Take a sub-section from about 2” above the ear, straight across. Blend some hair from the back of the section into some of the hair already cut from the back sections, then pull down as before and cut to the same length.
6. Do this on both sides of the head right up to the center parting, checking both sides are the same length after each cut. Once finished, re-check the length by combing all the hair back behind the ears and straight down at the back.
7. Separate a section by parting from the hairline to the crown in a circular shape on both sides. Comb the rest of the hair from the sides and back to a bunch at the back and clip securely out of the way.
8. Comb all the top section forward onto the face and take sections from the crown to the front hairline about 0.5-1” thick.
9. Hold up the section at an angle, sloping down towards the face, and cut the amount of hair wanted to create the layer. This can be done either by chipping softly or club cutting in a straight line. Work the whole of the top section in this way, holding the hair up straight and sloping down towards the face so that the hair is shorter around the face area.
The angle of the cut you decide on determines how short the hair is at the front and also how disconnected the cut is. The more slanted towards the front you cut, the shorter and more disconnected the end result will be; the less slanted towards the face you cut, the longer and less disconnected the layers.
10. Once the top section is finished, comb it forward and let down the back hair. Take vertical sections and comb them out from the back of the head, chipping into the ends where needed to create layers.
11. Run your hands through the hair and shake it out, making sure that you are happy with the layers created and the length you have taken out.
12. Dry the hair, then personalize according to the shape wanted by slicing or channel cutting out bulk, heavy area or weight lines in the disconnection.
Copyright @ 2007 New Holland Publisher (UK) Ltd.